We all met up for breakfast at 06.00 and just after 06.30 we were heading off for a full day birding the higher reaches of the Serra do Mar Mountains. As we approached our parking spot, clouds were slowly forming over the peak, but we set off with positive thoughts for a good days birding ahead!

Our first new bird of the day was a Grey-capped Tyrannulet that although perched way up in the canopy, showed it’s id features well, shortly afterwards, Roger spotted a female Black and Gold Cotinga in a distant tree. A Brazilian Antthrush started to call, but despite some effort, it refused to come any closer, but we did get great views of a female Green-crowned Plovercrest at the same spot. A little further up the track we used some playback to call in a female Giant Antshrike and a Rufous-tailed Antbird, which both gave good views. We arrived at a small viewpoint were I picked up a Swallow-tailed Cotinga, but unfortunately this didn’t stick around long enough for the whole group to see, hopefully we would catch up with the pair back at the lodge grounds later in the week.

We continued our way up the steep track and stumbled upon a mixed flock which contained Rufous-crowned Greenlet, Thick-billed Saltator, White-rimmed Warbler and a pair of Orange-eyed Thornbirds. Next up were several Scaly-headed Parrots perched out nicely in the open, a Plumbeous Pigeon, Pale-vented Pigeon, our first Diademed Tanagers, Blue-billed Black-Tyrant and a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, things were going well! Howard announced he had a bird, which turned out to be another of our endemic targets of the day, Bay-chested Warbling Finch, this was followed shortly afterwards by a Velvety-black Tyrant, Serra do Mar Tyrannulet and an Olivaceous Eleania.

We had now reached our look out point for Grey-winged Cotinga and although this vocalised frustratingly close, it refused to show itself! We spent around an hour at the spot, scanning for the Cotinga, but only picking up a Yellow-legged Thrush, Diademed Tanagers, male Green-crowned Plovercrest and another Velvety-black Tyrant.

The cloud had amazingly cleared and we were rewarded with stunning views across Nova Friburgo and beyond, it was clearly time to head onto the last section of the trail and find ourselves another localised endemic, the Itatiaia Thistletail. Some of the group decided not to go up further and remained at the viewpoint whilst we headed up towards the security guards hut and the 621 steps that followed. There was a fair bit of activity in this area, with more male Green-crowned Plovercrests and on about step 50, thankfully, an Itatiaia Thistletail…this saved us some serious time and a long walk, quite a relief! On the way back down the steps, we had great views of a pair of Pallid Spinetails and a female Blue-billed Black-Tyrant.

We started the slow walk back down towards the minibus picking up amazing views of a Mouse-coloured Tapaculo along the way and trying hard to call in a Large-tailed Antshrike, which unfortunately, refused to play ball. We did get great views of a male Black and Gold Cotinga and our final new birds of the day, a Rufous-backed Antvireo. It had been a tiring but incredibly productive days birding, arriving back at the lodge a little earlier than usual at 16.30, as we had been lucky enough to see the Thistletail so quickly. Upon arrival at the lodge, there was fresh tea, coffee and cake awaiting us and we continued birding from the decking area for a short while, before heading off for showers etc. Dinner was served at 18.30, followed by our daily checklist.

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